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The synagogue is open for services on Shabbat, though if you are Jewish, they should be able to open the doors for you to pray whenever.
There are many restaurants around Tunis that serve these traditional dishes with the same tender precision of home cooks. Tunisians believe eating spicy food is good for your health, though it might wreak havoc on an unaccustomed digestive system.
Otherwise, buy an exfoliating glove and a bar of soap, and follow the people rolling suitcases down the street to the nearest are single-sex, and cater to men and women at different hours – but both men and women should take everything off except their underwear. Sit for as long as you can tolerate in the steam room, to prepare your skin. The best way to sample this combination is with the , which is as close to a dumpling as you’ll find. Water and soap are viewed as cleaner than toilet paper, and following Islamic practice, your left hand is reserved for the dirty task. Just an hour outside of the city there are white sand beaches and turquoise waters, ancient Phoenician forts, and (second-hand) shopping; in Hammamet, cocktails and beach parties. There are only a couple hundred Tunisian Jews left in the city (most have moved to France or Israel), and even fewer Tunisian Christians, but their cultural contributions are still around.
A thin sheet of dough is filled with parsley, tuna fish, potatoes and a raw egg before being deep fried to crispy perfection and served with lemon. The right hand, meanwhile, gets to pinch cheeks, shovel food into the mouth, and exchange money. Most major cities are reachable from Tunis’s main train or bus stations, but if chaotic, borderline lawless driving doesn’t bother you, rent a car and drive along the northern portion of the 713-mile long coastline. On Avenue de la Liberte there is La Grande Synagogue de Tunis, guarded by several police officers and an imposing stretch of barbed wire.
There were long and bloody battles with other empires, the rise of famed General Hannibal, and military tactics that involved marching elephants over the Alps (though the Battle of Carthage resulted in decisive Roman victory and the end of Carthage). While not immune to the growing spread of violence across the region, Tunisia has been largely shielded from the sort of terror that emerged in neighboring Libya.
You can still visit the ruins of Carthage, now a suburb of Tunis, and the empire’s ancient port is also well preserved. However, the recent ISIS-led terror attacks in Sousse and Tunis, both in tourist locations, have put the country on edge.
You can still get by in Tunis with a few words of French, and walking around certain neighborhoods, it’s impossible to forget the legacy of French colonialism. If you are used to the subtle, anonymous clicking of online shopping, the souk, which is divided into several areas specializing in leather, olive wood, textiles, copper, jewelry, ceramics, perfumes, food, kitchen appliances, religious books, and the gaudy, satin-quilted glory of Arab weddings, might feel overwhelming.